I’ve written about Chile, about the reasons I’m here, and the experience of working with the kids so far, but I’ve neglected to bring you all up to speed with how my own surfing skills are panning out.
I’ve already mastered it and I am seriously contemplating officially becoming a Chilean citizen, after recieving a more than generous offer from the national government to join their olympic surfing team.
Yeah, not at all.
It’s been a while since I’ve tried to learn a new skill, at least something like this. And I’m not going to lie to you all, I’ve tried surfing a couple times and I’ve really sucked at it. Like, bad.
When I tried again this time I still wasn’t good, but on the plus side, I never realized how fun it can be to be terrible at something until I started learning to surf. I can fall off twenty times, but the one time I stand up is worth it. It’s neat to start from scratch at something and see myself progress bit by itty bitty bit. For example; the other week I stood up before the white water (the foam in front of a wave), and this week I actually dropped in for the first time, which was a crazy cool feeling.
I’m a firm believer in beginner’s luck and these past couple weeks have definitely supported that, with little bursts of reinforcement in many, many, many instances in which I’ve failed, (see; face plants, wipe outs, belly flops, and other things of that nature).
I leave you with the wise words of Phil Dunphy; “If you don’t fall off the horse, how can you expect to get back on again?”